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Post by jsanders on Mar 5, 2011 19:46:15 GMT -5
i bought a 14' jon boat with 5.5hp outboard and trailer. got it cheap and was to excited(cuz of the price) to notice the 3 million holes in the bottom. i took the boat off the trailer when i got it home to examine the trailer rollers, and notice silcone, bondo, jb weld, and some other adhesive on the bottom. all the rivets seem to be patched. i bought some vinyl sticks that are used to patched holes in aluminum boats but figured i could ask you guys. what is the best way to patch these holes? i did also buy some new rivets for the missing rivets that were replaced by silcone.
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Post by FatBoy Dan on Mar 5, 2011 20:01:16 GMT -5
Ive used these aluminum rods i got from a guy saleing them @ a fle market one year & all you got to do is heat the aluminum with a blow torch & when hot rub the aluminum rod around & round and it melts like clue right on to or over a small hole. it whould hold strong on what your wanting to do. Mant other ways t do it all so even tar .
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Post by pitbulld45 on Mar 6, 2011 0:33:46 GMT -5
Best way is a Tig welder.
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Post by Greenedog on Jan 2, 2012 15:00:35 GMT -5
Did you get the boat fixed, Justin? The BB&B boat is leaking like CRAZY! Chase and me used the redneck way of filling up the boat to find the leak the other day and were able to locate it. It seems one of the screws for the floor has worked it's way through the bottom of the boat. I'm thinking about ordering this... www.cabelas.com/boat-care-appearance-cabelas-aluminum-boat-patch.shtml
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Post by jsanders on Jan 3, 2012 11:51:24 GMT -5
Actually that is exactly what I used. I used up 4 sticks and it holds really well. I did have to clean the aluminum off to get a good seal. Drill with a brass wire wheel and alcohol to clean the area that needed patched. The boat had to be on saw horses and placed on them upside down to seep into the rivets though. I am completely satisfied with the results.
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Post by Brian on Jan 5, 2012 21:32:32 GMT -5
According to the TV infomercial, that rubber in a can stuff makes a screen door on the bottom of a boat water tight. Might be good to spray over some patches to make them even stronger.
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Post by Greenedog on Jan 6, 2012 20:08:41 GMT -5
According to the TV infomercial, that rubber in a can stuff makes a screen door on the bottom of a boat water tight. Might be good to spray over some patches to make them even stronger. Yeah, I've got some of that junk sprayed on the bottom already. I don't know how they can get by with those commercials. Guess there's no such thing as "false advertising" anymore.
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Post by Greenedog on Jan 6, 2012 20:46:28 GMT -5
The boat had to be on saw horses and placed on them upside down to seep into the rivets though. I am completely satisfied with the results. That's gonna be our problem. The "barge" is jut too big and heavy to flip over.
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Post by jsanders on Jan 7, 2012 11:49:57 GMT -5
Can you put it on its side? I can help or just hangout
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Post by ArcherAndy on Jan 8, 2012 22:40:57 GMT -5
I second the TIG welder comment. Fix it permanently and you won't have to worry about it anymore. I personally do not have any experience with those aluminum repair sticks, but if it works then that may be another good option. I bought a nice Miller TIG machine this summer and I am still learning how to weld aluminum. I'm getting the hang of it. When I get to where I feel comfortable, I plan to build an 18" all aluminum raised shooting deck and enclosed light rail on my 1652 Jon boat that I am building up for bowfishing. If my welder were more portable, then I would offer to fix it for you guys. Any local welding shop that can do aluminum welding can get you fixed up with a TIG or MIG machine using 100% Argon shielding gas required when welding aluminum. This would be the best fix in my opinion.
What size Jon boat is the "Barge" Troy?
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Post by Greenedog on Jan 9, 2012 10:02:13 GMT -5
Can you put it on its side? I can help or just hangout If you're gonna hangout you're gonna help! Maybe that would be a good 'Wing Off" project? What size Jon boat is the "Barge" Troy? She's a 16 footer. Here's a pic from when I first brought it home. I have no doubt that welding would be the way to go. I was just looking for something quick and cheap so I could get back on the water now. The first thing I need to do is find the screw that is poking out the bottom. It's under the cranking battery holder and I'm sure it's been "jack-hammering" it's way through the bottom as we travel down those wonderful state forest roads. Oh, and welcome back Andrew!
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Post by ArcherAndy on Jan 10, 2012 20:43:01 GMT -5
Thanks Troy! I always like to check in on you guys to see how all of you are doing. I like your boat!
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Post by strippitman on Jun 5, 2012 8:17:26 GMT -5
Troy - I know you are still having issues with your boat leaking. Your boat is too daggum nice to be considering using it for "scrap metal" as you mentioned on another website. I have a couple suggestions as to what to use to fix the leak. Suggestion #1: www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/Uploads/FixSeamsGflex.pdfSuggestion number 2 would be to buy a rubber basement waterproofing product that can be applied by using a roller/brush or possibly garden sprayer. I think this suggestion might be the best option but my only concern is how well it will bond to aluminum. The nice thing about rubber products is that it will flex with the boat without cracking and you could coat the entire underside and few inches up past the waterline on the sides and transom in a short amount of time. Thoughts anyone??
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Post by Greenedog on Jun 5, 2012 11:45:51 GMT -5
Thanks Matt, I'll look into those before I send her to the scrap heap.
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Post by strippitman on Jun 6, 2012 8:15:34 GMT -5
I found this and I am going to send them an email to see if they think it will work to waterproof an aluminum boat. www.rubberizeit.com/I'd really like to see the barge riding high 'n dry
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